Review: Sirene.

This supposed seafood focused spot comes from the team behind The Morris but can it stand on its own?

Sirene in Oakland has been open for over a year now and while it’s close to where I live, it took me a while to finally give it a try. Its predecessor is The Morris which I haven’t dined at in nearly a decade so I really can’t speak to how the restaurant is today. From what I understand, though, its concept hasn’t changed much with charcuterie and smoked duck remaining the signature offerings. Sirene takes a different approach leaning heavily into seafood while also being known for its fried chicken, a combination that initially struck me as a bit unusual. Reviews seemed to be all over the place so I went in with fairly modest expectations. We were a party of four which gave us the opportunity to sample a good cross section of the menu.

Sourdough Bread and Cultured Butter (8/10).

A strong start. The sourdough had a nicely developed crust with a pleasantly chewy interior and the cultured butter added just the right amount of richness.

Tuna Crudo with Strawberry Aguachile, Avocado, and English Peas (8/10).

Sharing any crudo among four people is always a little painful. While I would have preferred the tuna to be sliced rather than cut into chunks, the flavors were unexpectedly excellent. The strawberry aguachile packed plenty of acidity and brightness without overwhelming the fish while the creamy avocado balanced everything beautifully. This ended up being one of the more memorable seafood dishes of the meal.

Sea Scallop Crudo with Yuzu and Almond Vinaigrette, Bee Pollen, and Caviar (7/10).

Once again the portion size made sharing difficult, it looked like a single scallop sliced paper thin making the price feel especially steep. The scallop itself was incredibly fresh but the supporting ingredients never quite came together. I was hoping the caviar would add more of that briny salty pop but it felt surprisingly muted.

Lamb Dumplings with Harissa Jus (5.5-6/10).

This was one of the misses of the evening. The dumplings themselves were fine but the jus leaned greasy and I never got the bold smoky heat that I associate with harissa. Overall it lacked the punch the dish promised.

Zucchini and Peach Salad with Mint and Pepitas (7.5-8/10).

A refreshing summer salad that highlighted seasonal produce well. The sweetness of the peaches, fresh mint, crunchy pepitas, and tender zucchini created a nice balance of flavors and textures without trying too hard.

Mussels from the Wood Oven with Leeks, Potatoes, and Anchovy Broth (7/10).

The mussels were fresh and perfectly cooked and the anchovy broth had a subtle savory depth with just a slight kick of spice. However, the chunks of potato felt somewhat random and disconnected from the rest of the dish making it feel a bit less cohesive than it could have been.

Fries with Aioli (7/10).

Perfectly respectable fries with a good crisp exterior. The aioli was enjoyable but overall these were solid rather than memorable.

Gnocchi with Corn, Porcini, and Ricotta Salata (8/10).

One of the standout dishes of the night. The pillowy gnocchi paired beautifully with sweet charred corn, salty Ricotta Salata, and crisp slices of apple that added an unexpected freshness. It sounds like an unusual combination on paper but everything came together remarkably well.

Fried Chicken with Andouille Gravy and Scallion Cheddar Biscuit (7/10).

Given the restaurant’s reputation, this was probably the dish I was most excited to try. While it was certainly good, it didn’t quite live up to the hype. The chicken had an incredibly crisp crackly crust but I wished it had a bit more seasoning. The andouille gravy lacked depth and leaned greasy while the scallion cheddar biscuit didn’t deliver the rich cheesy flavor I was expecting.

Thankfully Sirene finished the meal on a much stronger note.

Gift: Miso Caramel Ice Cream (8/10).

This complimentary scoop was a thoughtful gesture from the restaurant. The balance of sweet caramel and savory miso was spot on.

Buckwheat Donuts with Chartreuse Crème Anglaise (8/10).

These were excellent. The donuts were light, airy, and generously coated in cinnamon sugar, while the Chartreuse crème anglaise added an herbal complexity that kept the dessert from feeling overly sweet.

Passionfruit Posset with Citrus Meringue (7/10).

The passionfruit flavor was bright, tangy, and exactly what I wanted. Unfortunately, the texture of the posset was a little softer than ideal and I would have liked the citrus meringue to have a bit more crispness.

Chocolate Cake with Espresso Syrup and Buttermilk Ice Cream (8/10).

A rich decadent dessert that will satisfy any chocolate lover. The espresso syrup deepened the chocolate flavors without becoming bitter while the tangy buttermilk ice cream helped cut through the richness and kept each bite balanced.

Overall, Sirene was a solid meal but it didn’t completely win me over. There were several standout dishes but a handful of others felt underseasoned or lacked cohesion. The seafood focus is certainly there, although the menu occasionally feels like it’s trying to balance two different identities between refined seafood plates and comfort food staples like fried chicken. It’s a worthwhile neighborhood spot but not somewhere I’d go out of my way for so my rating is a 7-7.5/10.

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