After an adventure packed day at Plitvice Lakes National Park, we made it to Split!
We arrived mid afternoon to our apartment to meet our host. While she wasn’t able to come, her parents greeted us and were incredibly hospitable. The night before and that morning, one of the worst storms the city had seen in years had rolled through, leaving behind flooding and debris. While the apartment itself didn’t quite look like the photos online, I think this storm chaos made the hosts panic and spend a lot of time cleaning the patio and didn’t do the most thorough job cleaning the apartment itself and Tommaso ended up spending an hour cleaning the floors and surfaces of the apartment which wasn’t the best way to start our trip here. While the location of the apartment was fine, we unfortunately can’t recommend the property itself.
After freshening up, we wandered around the city before heading to dinner.
We also stopped for a snack at one of the local bakery chains where I got the first of many bureks during our trip. I always go for the spinach and cheese (I’m drooling just thinking about them)!
We stopped by a bar for a quick refreshing beverage where I got a mocktail and Tommaso got his tried and true, Coke Zero.
Cute Coke Bottle Label!
Our first dinner in Split was at Konoba Fetivi, a recommendation by my friend where you get to pick various local seafood to be grilled.
Of course we had to start off with a few appetizers.
Fried Prawns.
These delicious fried prawns were so crispy yet the meat inside was delicate and sweet.
Octopus Stew with Chickpeas.
The octopus was tender and swimming in a rich tomato sauce with chickpeas and parsley. Very simple but so tasty.
For the main dish, they brought out a display platter of all the seafood that was available to be grilled from sea bass, to sea bream, to John Dory, to swordfish, to scorpion fish, to octopus and squid, and to langoustine. If we didn’t get any appetizers, we probably would have gotten the mixed grilled platter for two but since we wanted to try the appetizers, we opted on getting one sea bream to share along with mixed grilled vegetables.
Grilled Sea Bream.
Grilled Mixed Vegetables.
So Good!
While the food is simply prepared, the freshness of the fish plus the kiss of smoke made for a great main course. What took the fish and vegetables over the top was their superb olive oil (we wanted to see if we could even buy some but they said they get it specifically for the restaurant) which was so aromatic with the tender white fish.
We couldn’t finish the meal without something sweet and we tried two local classics.
Splitska Torta.
Splitska Torta is a traditional cake from Split with dried figs, raisins, and almonds with an egg yolk buttercream. While there were a lot of raisins, I’m always interested in trying something local that I wouldn’t get to try elsewhere.
Rožata.
Rožata is their version of flan or crème caramel and while we both enjoyed the flavor, the texture could have been less stiff.
Konoba Fetivi was one of our favorite meals due to its no frills simple cooking using fresh local ingredients. Any seafood lover would have enjoyed this meal.
The following day was spent sightseeing the Old Town of Split. We started off the day walking through the green market, an outdoor market with various food vendors. All the fresh fruit and vegetables looked incredible!
Wandering through the Old Town feels like stepping straight into history and nowhere is that more true than inside Diocletian’s Palace, an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Built in the 4th century as Emperor Diocletian’s retirement home, this sprawling fortress-palace now makes up the heart of the city. The Peristyle, the palace’s central courtyard, is especially magical since its framed with massive granite columns and guarded by an ancient Egyptian sphinx.
Diocletian’s mausoleum later became the Cathedral of St. Domnius which is now considered the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world still in use in its original structure, how cool! Inside you’ll find a mix of Roman grandeur and medieval artistry with 13th century wooden doors intricately carved with scenes from Christ’s life, Gothic and Baroque altars, and a treasury filled with relics and manuscripts.
Afterwards we climbed the 57 meter bell tower (built centuries later) where you see sweeping views over the city’s terracotta rooftops and the glistening sea. It was crazy windy up there!
After admiring the stunning view, we walked down and tucked beneath the Cathedral of St. Domnius lies the Crypt of St. Lucy, a small circular chapel with a story as haunting as it is fascinating. Dedicated to Saint Lucy of Syracuse (a Christian martyr executed during Diocletian’s reign), it mirrors the cathedral’s round design and holds a central well of groundwater long believed to have healing powers especially for eyesight. On December 13, Lucy’s feast day, Mass is held here and locals come to drink or touch the water, carrying on centuries of tradition. The crypt itself is stark with little more than a statue of St. Lucy holding her eyes on a plate. It’s ironic honoring a Christian martyr directly beneath the mausoleum of the emperor who tried to erase her faith.
The last stop before our lunch break was Jupiter’s Temple, a small space dedicated to the Roman king of the gods which is fitting because Diocletian claimed Jupiter as his divine father. Inside you’ll see one of the best preserved Roman barrel vaulted ceilings with intricate stone coffers. In the 7th century, the temple was repurposed into the Baptistery of St. John. A striking statue of St. John now stands where Jupiter once reigned and outside a Egyptian sphinx still guards the entrance.
After a few hours of sightseeing, it was time to head over to Kantun Paulina, a legendary sandwich shop serving up ćevapi (minced meat sausages). There was a slight line but we probably didn’t wait longer than 15 minutes. Their menu is small and everyone was getting the ćevapi sandwich with ajvar, onions, and a spreadable cheese.
Ćevapi Sandwich.
It’s such a simple sandwich but so incredibly delicious. The fluffy warm bread with that tangy yet sweet ajvar spread with the meaty ćevapi and subtle sweet cheese makes for a perfect lunch on the go.
Croatia has a lot of stray cats so of course I had to do a photoshoot with one of the most friendliest cats ever! What a cutie.
The rest of our day took us through Forest Park Marjan and up the Marjan Hill stairs for another fantastic viewpoint of the city.
While walking on our way to the viewpoint, we noticed a tiny dog guarding a home and even on our way back, the dog was still there. Watching every person walk by.
Our last stop of the day was Kasjuni beach which was at the end of the park. We relaxed here for a bit before heading back to the apartment. While the beach was busy, we could still admire the beauty of the water.
We ended our night with a rustic dinner at DeListes Restaurant where they don’t take reservations and only accept cash. We got lucky with a table considering how tiny this place was.
Their menu is pretty small, focusing on seafood with a few meat options.
Fried Seafood with Vegetables.
We both really enjoyed the mixed fried seafood. I especially liked the fried fish and nothing felt too heavy.
Marinated Sardines.
We both wanted the sardines to be more marinated with a stronger flavor. We ended up adding more salt and vinegar to the mixture which helped but this wasn’t the strongest dish. We’ve had marinated sardines in the past that were far superior.
The Spread!
At least we got a nice hefty portion of vegetables.
Like I mentioned earlier, the city has so many stray cats and we befriended another local who was thrilled to get a nibble of seafood.
Feeding the Kitty!
We decided to get some gelato on our way home at Ela’s Gelateria where I was pleasantly surprised on how good the gelato was. I got pistachio and white chocolate raspberry and both flavors were superb.
While walking back to our apartment, we ran into a Shiba Inu puppy who was beyond adorable. Of course we had to stop and say hello! I think this is Shiba Inu sighting #2?!
Our last day was a jam packed day as we had a boat trip planned for the entire day where we left the port bright and early.
Split Port.
Our first stop was the picturesque village of Milna on the western side of the island of Brač.
We only stayed here for 30 minutes or so before our main attraction, Hvar Island, which is famous for its sun soaked coastlines and nightlife. While I would have loved to stay on the island for a few days, we just didn’t have enough time during our trip.
High above the town lies the Fortica Fortress, also called Španjola, built in the 16th century where it was both a lookout point and a safe haven. Walking up through narrow stone streets or a winding path lined with pine trees, you’re rewarded with sweeping views over Hvar Town, its terracotta rooftops, and the sparkling Pakleni Islands. Inside, the fortress still holds cannons, cisterns, and even fragments of ancient amphorae recovered from nearby shipwrecks reminding visitors of the island’s long maritime history. Today it’s less about defense and more about the panorama.
If you only climb one hill in Hvar, make it this one as the view is unbeatable.After a few hours exploring, we were back on the boat to go see the Red Rocks (Crvene Stijene), one of the island’s most striking natural wonders. Towering cliffs of deep red limestone plunge dramatically into the sea with hidden caves and coves that are perfect for swimming.
Our last stop was Luka on Šolta Island, a tiny town that’s quite serene compared to the hustle and bustle of Hvar. Surrounded by pine forests and traditional stone houses, this peaceful fishing village is all about slowing down as there’s barely any crowds.
The only destination that we unfortunately couldn’t visit was Bol on Brač Island which was where I was most looking forward to due to its incredible beaches. The area where the town is located had slightly rough weather conditions so our skipper didn’t feel comfortable going there which we completely understood. Hopefully one day I can visit!After a very long day excursion day, we finished our time in Split with a great dinner at Bokeria Kitchen & Wine, an insanely popular restaurant.
Soparnik (Flabread with Swiss Chard and Cheese).
We started off with this scrumptious version of soparnik, a traditional savory pie, but their version was more like a stuffed flatbread with Swiss chard and Cottage cheese. It was served with a tangy Feta cheese spread.
Pasta with Truffle, Mascarpone Cream, and Prosciutto.
Talk about a decadent pasta dish. The noodles were like strozzapreti or trofie in a rich truffle and Mascarpone cheese cream with small slivers of prosciutto and arugula. I loved everything about this dish.
Octopus with Bulgar and Quinoa Salad.
The last savory dish we got was the grilled octopus that had a nice char on the outside served with a bulgar and quinoa salad and a carrot purée. Everything was seasoned well and was a nice contrast to the rich pasta dish.
So Good!
We decided to skip dessert here and got gelato at Ela’s Gelateria again because I enjoyed it so much the night before.
Another Round at Ela’s!
Our time in Split was such a fun mix of history, food, and coastal beauty. Wandering through ancient Roman ruins one moment and walking by the Adriatic the next. Between the fresh seafood feasts, multiple gelato stops, friendly cats, and day trips to nearby islands, Split really captured that perfect balance of adventure and relaxation.
Nicely done. Beautiful land n