Our Croatian adventure kicked off in the capital city of Zagreb!

After a week exploring Italy in the middle of a heatwave, Zagreb’s weather felt like a welcome relief. Still warm but far less punishing. We checked into the Amadria Park Hotel Capital, a stunning property in the city center where the hospitality truly stood out.

Upon arrival we were greeted with complimentary beverages before even checking into our room, a small but thoughtful touch that made a great first impression. Our room was spotless and modern and one of the reasons I chose this hotel was because it had a gym. We squeezed in a workout every morning to balance out all the incredible meals we had lined up.

Since we arrived in the afternoon, we had some time to wander before our dinner reservation. We started with a stroll down Tkalčićeva Street, one of the liveliest streets in the city lined with cafes, bars, and boutiques. Interestingly, the city center was relatively calm that evening due to a large concert elsewhere, a quiet we both appreciated.

Next, we made our way uphill to see St. Mark’s Church, one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. The church dates back to the 13th century and although it has been restored over time, it still preserves some of its Romanesque architectural features like a 13th century window. Its colorful tiled roof, added in the late 19th century features the medieval coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia, as well as the emblem of Zagreb. It’s a symbol of national pride and a must see.

Just a short walk away is the Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata), one of the last remaining entrances to the old medieval city. Originally part of the city’s fortifications, the gate now houses a small chapel with a painting of the Virgin Mary that miraculously survived a devastating fire in 1731. To this day, it’s considered a sacred site and locals often stop to pray or light candles.

Our final stop of the day was the Lotrščak Tower where we climbed to the top for sweeping panoramic views of the city. Fun fact: there’s a real cannon inside the tower that’s been fired every day at noon since the late 19th century. A few days later while we were elsewhere in the city we suddenly heard a loud boom and smiled, right on schedule.

On the way to dinner we passed through Zrinjevac Park, dotted with fountains and colorful flower beds. We even had our first Shiba Inu sighting!

We wrapped up our first night with an early birthday celebration at Noel where we indulged in a fabulous tasting menu.

The next day, my actual birthday, was relaxed and perfect. After attempting to sleep in a little (I’m notoriously an early riser and haven’t slept in past 8AM in probably a decade), we got a quick workout in at the hotel gym.

Our first stop of the day was La Štruk, a cozy little spot that serves only one thing: štrukli, a traditional Croatian dish made of baked dough and cheese, savory or sweet.

The menu is very straight forward with savory options such as plain, paprika, or truffle and sweet options such as blueberry, walnuts and honey, or apple and cinnamon. It was honestly similar to lasagna but with less layers. We tried the truffle version, tasty though not mind blowing.

From there we strolled through the city passing by the Zagreb Cathedral, currently undergoing repairs after damage from the 2020 earthquake. The cathedral is the 2nd tallest building in the country and a striking example of Gothic Revival architecture. We also visited the Botanical Garden, a lovely green escape in the city.

For an afternoon treat, we shared an ice cream at Sisters Kurtoš & Ice Cream and we were both pleasantly surprised at the quality of the ice cream.

Dinner that evening was at Pod Zidom Bistro, a casual spot with bold creative food. When we arrived, the restaurant was nearly empty but by the time we left, it was packed. Definitely make a reservation!

Who doesn’t love some sourdough bread with various butters?!

This isn’t your ordinary Burrata cheese with tomato salad. Fresh sweet cherry tomatoes were dressed with a grilled tomato sauce, tomato consommé, and basil oil. It was refreshing yet rich.

These shredded beef croquettes were crunchy on the outside with tender meat inside. The celery apple cream was velvety smooth, the apple chutney added deep sweet notes, and the coriander oil rounded out the dish.

I was hesitant to try the gnocchi but these were mouthwateringly delicious. The gnocchi were soft but still held their shape and that braised lamb was unctuous. The pumpkin seed pesto added a layer of flavor and the curly kale made sure I got my greens in. Lastly that Parmigiano Reggiano cheese mousse was so creamy and decadent.

The last savory dish were slow cooked beef cheeks served with dumplings, a charred onion soubise, and chicken skin cracklings. Also a stellar dish.

A classic pairing of chocolate and orange with a chocolate spongecake with chocolate ganache, orange jelly, chocolate crémeux, and cocoa crumble.

We both liked this dessert a little more. The tonka bean cheesecake was served with an almond crumble and raspberry ice cream.

I couldn’t have asked for a better birthday and I got two back to back amazing dinners!

We capped the evening with a walk through Ban Jelačić Square, soaking in the lively late night vibe of the city.

Our final day was actually slightly rainy which was a nice reprieve from the warm weather. We once again got a morning workout in before getting a quick lunch at Heritage Croatian Street Food and Shop, a tiny gem serving up sandwiches using local ingredients.

We got three half sandwiches to share which was the perfect amount as we typically don’t eat much during the day as we prefer to save our appetites for dinner.

We got the slavonian bride (spicy sausage from Slavonija, cheese from Lika, ajvar, lettuce, and tomato); dinaric hawk (dried pork neck from Slavonija, cheese from Lika, caramelized red onions, arugula, and tomato); and the fish sando with marinated anchovies, caramelized red onions, and dill.

Afterwards, we ducked into a cozy café for a coffee and tea break while it drizzled outside.

Since it was raining, it worked out perfectly since we were planning to go to one of the city’s most unique museums, Museum of Broken Relationships. The museum features a diverse collection of objects, each representing a personal story of a past relationship, contributing to a broader narrative of human emotional experiences.

A lot of stories were quite heartbreaking to read whether they were romantic, platonic, or familial relationships.

Our final dinner was at Gostionica Ficlek which serves traditional cuisine and I was excited to try it since our last two dinners were more modern.

We started off with a traditional chicken soup, rich in flavor, with simple dumplings made from flour, eggs, and seasoning.

This was a seasonal dish for summer where minced meat (I think a mixture or beef or veal with pork) was stuffed inside sweet peppers in a tomato sauce. Served with creamy mashed potatoes, this was comfort in a bowl.

Who doesn’t love a fried “cutlet” type of dish? Stuffed with melty cheese and ham, this is always a crowd pleaser. The dish doesn’t come with any sides so we got the sautéed potatoes and onions which were also yummy.

We also got the marinated beet salad which cut through the richness of both the meat dishes.

We ended the night at Fine Torte, a nearby pastry shop, with two slices of cake.

Zagreb charmed us with its beautiful architecture, peaceful parks, and a food scene that really surprised us. From truffle štrukli to beef cheeks to birthday desserts, this city served up a delicious beginning to our trip and set the bar high for what was still to come. Whether you’re into history, design, or just want to eat your way through a city, Zagreb is well worth a few days on your itinerary.